![]() ![]() The rafters need to be nailed and blocked at both the plate and the ridge. Excess material at the top of the rafters can be trimmed off either before or after they have been nailed in place. Each rafter laps and ties into the opposing rafter with two 16d nails. In this case, the common rafters don't need a ridge plumb cut, but they do need a bird's mouth cut at the plate line and may need a bird's mouth at the beam, depending on the code. The ridge is often a beam that spans the room with the rafters resting on top of it. Rake walls are framed to allow for an open or cathe dral ceiling (see pp. These rafters are resting on a 6x 7 6 beam, which will be exposed in the cathedral ceiling. This forms a rigid triangle that helps tie the roof system together. ![]() Where a rafter falls next to a ceiling joist, drive three 16d nails through the rafter into the joist and a toenail down into the plate (see the drawing on p. Nail through the sides of the rafters into the ends of the frieze blocks, using two 16d nails for up to 2x12 stock. The rest of the rafters will now stack easily and make you feel that you're cruising right along. On occasion, the ridge will extend into the overhang and be ripped to the size of the common rafters (see p. Codes generally call for a sway brace on each end and one every 25 ft. Then reposition the rafters and nail them to the ridge. When you reach the far end of the building, eyeball the last rafter pair plumb with the wall, scribe the end cut on the ridge, slide the rafters over a bit and cut the ridge to length. Raise the remaining ridge sections in the same way, installing the minimum number of rafter pairs and support legs to hold them in place. The best way to avoid having to adjust the ridge board, of course, is to make sure that the walls are framed accurately in the first place. The small gap that results at the bird's mouth will be covered by siding or frieze blocks. In this case, pull the nails out of the rafter pair at the top plate on the high end of the ridge and slide the rafters out until the ridge rests on a leg. If these legs need to be cut to dif ferent lengths to fit beneath the ridge, it means that the walls probably aren't parallel and, consequently, that the ridge board isn't level. Next, nail 2x4 legs from the top plate or joists to the ridge at both ends and one in the middle to give it extra support. To keep from dulling a sawblade later when you sheathe the roof, avoid nailing into the top edge of the rafters. Drive two 16d nails straight through the ridge into the end of the first rafter, then angle two more through the ridge into the opposing rafter. Height -it is determined by the rafters without any measuring. o.c., a rafter ties into everyfourth joist. Now pull the ridge up between the two pairs of rafters. Next, move to the opposite end of the first ridge section and toenail another rafter pair in the same way. If that's the case, nail a temporary Ix brace di agonally from the rafters to a joist or plate. The two rafters will rest against each other temporarily, unless you're framing in a Wyoming wind. The process is repeated with the opposing rafter. While one person holds the rafter at the ridge, the other toenails the bottom end to the double top plate with two I6d nails on one side and one on the other. First, pull up a straight rafter at the gable end. Roof rafters can easily be installed (or /I stacked") by two carpenters. Rafters will either fall next to a joist or be spaced the proper distance apart by frieze blocks nailed between them. In either case, no lay out is necessary on the top plates.
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